HerbDoc has a spring in her step these days!
The weather here in Rhode Island during the past week has been spectacular, and it seems as if spring has finally arrived! Snowdrops and crocus have been happily blooming in my garden, the daffodils are up and budded, and the goldfinches at the feeder are showing deeper coloration. Spring songs are evident from other feathered friends.
The markets are carrying cut and potted spring flowers, the always popular St. Patrick’s Day shamrocks, and oxalis, often mistaken for real shamrocks. For those who are unfamiliar with the legend behind the four leaf clover, the leaves represent faith, hope, love and luck. In Ireland, the three leaved shamrock represents the Holy Trinity: the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. If a shamrock is found with a fourth leaf, it represents God’s Grace.
It is said that Eve carried a four leaf clover from the Garden of Eden, and the early Celts used white clover as a charm against evil spirits. The Druids considered the four leaf clover a symbol of luck. Finding a real one today is a rarity, and like the Druids, we see it as a sign of good fortune.
Happy St. Patrick’s Day to all and here’s to the continuing good weather and finding a four leaf clover in your lawn when it greens up!
Don’t forget to push your clocks ahead one hour on Saturday evening!
HerbDoc has some interesting thoughts on spring planting:
Farmers and gardeners have been tuned into the phases of the moon for centuries. Controlling pests, fertilization, harvesting, irrigation, planting and even animal breeding were often dictated by the moon phases, sometimes in conjunction with astrological signs.
For gardeners, the important rule is to plant above ground vegetables such as lettuce and other leafy plants “by the light of the moon.” This is the period after the New Moon when the light gradually increases to the Full Moon. Crops that produce below the ground such as onions and potatoes are planted “by the dark of the moon”, that is the period after the Full Moon when the light decreases. It is said that by following these practices, crops will grow larger and more quickly with bigger yields. On the other hand, if one does the opposite, negative results will occur.
My grandmother always followed three “moon” rules:
1) Plant seeds within 2 days (48 hours) before a full moon;
2) Plant potatoes only by the dark of the moon; and
3) Never plant anything on the day of a Full Moon, a New Moon, or
in the last quarter (to the New Moon).
My grandmother’s gardens were always amazing, producing huge amounts of vegetables for “putting by” and gorgeous annuals and perennials. Not one to question her wisdom, I follow her lead, but not always with such spectacular results. (I attribute that to not having the three dozen or so chickens which provided composted manure for her gardens on a yearly basis).
To find specific dates for planting and other gardening chores in 2010, log onto www.farmersalmanac.com for a free guide.
Hmmm... those fingernails are just a bit too clean.....
With so many people using smart phones and iPods these days, I thought I’d do a quick survey of gardening apps available for these devices. New apps being added to iTunes almost daily, so it’s useful to check often for the latest introductions.
At last count, there are nearly 50 gardening apps available. Many of these are really just new ways to make and save your garden “to-do” lists. I was unable to find any that are free.
Here are a few for your consideration. I always like to read the user reviews before I buy, so I don’t buy anything that has not yet had any reviews.
Botany Buddy: $9.99
The “ultimate” (and priciest) guide to trees and shrubs.
Good reviews. I am tempted.
Botanical Interests: $5.99
Despite the silly name, I bought this after reading positive reviews and so far I like it. Good interface and nice graphics make it easy to use.
Master Gardener: $3.99
One of numerous garden journal/ tracking/ planning apps, but according to the user reviews, one of the best.
The Master Gardener app
iGarden USA: $4.99
Another garden planning and tracking app.
Some reviewers found it a tad simple for the price – ie: not enough information.
Organic Garden: $1.99
A journaling and “to-do” app that allows you to post photos of your plants. As the name implies, for organic gardeners.
No reviews yet of the latest version
Garden Insects: $.99
A reference for garden insects. One review only, calling for a bigger database – a common request with many of these apps
Homegrown: $.99
For veggie gardeners. Keeps track of your harvest – quantities and dates. Intriguing concept.
No reviews yet
Eden Garden Designer: $.99
A design app that allows you to see how your garden will look at different times of the year.
The idea sounded great, but this app had mixed reviews.
iPlant: $1.99
A reference guide with information on edible and medicinal plants. This looked promising – until I read the reviews. One person pointed out a glaring error that advised that rhubarb leaves, (known to be poisonous) are tasty. Yikes!!!
MyGarden: $1.99
More or less a plant data entry app – with not enough data, it seems.
Poor reviews.
Houseplant 411: $4.99
A decent database, with information on choosing and caring for houseplants. There is also help for ailing plants.
People who bought it say this is a practical, easy-to-use app. I might just spring for this one.
New apps being introduced at a dizzying pace, so there will be many new ones coming at us. I think it’s important to make a distinction between what is “cool” and what is truly useful. It’s easy to get sucked in by pretty photos and graphics, but will you actually USE the app once you have gotten to know it? Also, how do you know the information you are accessing is accurate? I guess the best way is to read what others are saying about the app and to steer clear of those with a lot of bad reviews.
Please let us know if you have used any of these apps, or if you know about new and/or better ones.
HerbDoc has some thoughts on the AeroGarden:
I’ve often thought about having an AeroGarden for growing winter vegetables and was pleasantly surprised when my husband purchased the 6 Elite+ for me at Christmastime. This particular unit is said to be the top of the line and provides twice the height (2 feet) on an extendable arm and 50% more light (4350 lumens) than the standard AeroGarden 6.
The AeroGarden 6 Elite Plus
The unit itself is black with brushed stainless trim and includes a trellis system. It supposedly can be set to turn on and off for specified amounts of time, but I’ve had no luck here. It automatically turns off at 5:30 PM, but although it’s set for vegetables on a 12 hour cycle, it insists on turning on at 2:30 every morning. The system also has a 24 hour light cycle which makes no sense since plants need both dark and light periods to grow. The unit came with two pods planted with Ruby heirloom tomato seeds, four spacer pods and a bag of organic fertilizer tablets.
I set up and planted the garden about 2 weeks after Christmas. On the positive side, the pods germinated in 10 days, and the plants are currently fifteen inches high, in full flower, and have covered the base. The smell of tomato greenery is wonderful when the plants are touched! I also carefully checked my electric bill, and there has been little or no change.
My only complaints have been with the ornery timer system and the very noisy, buzzing base which contains the air pump. I contacted AeroGarden immediately about the noise because it could be heard three rooms away, and they have promised a replacement. One other drawback of the AeroGarden is that well water cannot be used in the unit; city water or distilled water is fine.
In order to save money, I plan to save and clean the pods, replacing the sponges with new grow sponges or rock wool. I will also use my own seeds in the future and fertilize with Para Vida Bloom which will not clog hydroponic systems. What really looks interesting to me now is AeroGarden’s optional “Garden Starter Tray” for the Elite 6+, in which 66 seedlings can be started for planting outdoors.
The Johnny's Selected Seeds soil blocker
Here’s Herbdoc with something that should make seed starting easier:
I finally decided to invest in a soil blocker instead of purchasing peat pots and saving various containers for seed starting every year. These small tools turn out blocks of growing media that have been compressed into their own containers.
Seedlings grow very strong root systems in these blocks and cannot become root bound as they do in regular pots. In order to hold its shape and retain moisture, the mix which is used to fashion the blocks needs some fibrous material. Although commercial mixes can be used, some contain wetting agents or fertilizer making them unsuitable for organic growing methods.
Eliot Coleman in the New Organic Grower recommends the following recipe for about 2 bushels of mix:
3 (10 qt) buckets of brown peat
½ cup lime
2 (10 qt) buckets of coarse sand or perlite
3 cups equal parts of blood meal, colloidal phosphate and garden sand
1 (10 qt) bucket garden soil
2 (10 qt) buckets of well decomposed compost
Moisten the mix using one part warm water to every three parts of blocking mix. The mix should have the consistency of peanut butter or wet cement.
Water should ooze through the blocker as the blocks are made.
I found gathering all of these materials tedious so when I purchased my blocker from Johnny’s Seeds ($29.95), I also ordered a bag of organic 512 mix which is available in 20 or 60 qt. bags.
The blocker itself is easy to use! Just make a pile of mix about 1 ½ times deeper that the height of the blocker. Plunge the blocker down into the mix, giving it a quarter turn, lift, and set the blocker in your tray. Push down on the handle and raise the blocker. Presto! Four neat little pots. Rinse the blocker in warm water before making the next set.
The blocker even makes its own indentations for the seeds. Cover with additional soil (or not) as specified on the seed packet.
I’m really excited to have this new tool and not to have to purchase peat pots any longer. The peat pots easily fell apart or were too dry or too wet, and I had to rip the tops off every pot when transplanting so they wouldn’t wick water. Seedlings grown in the soil blocks are said to establish themselves more quickly because they have stronger roots which are less disrupted when transplanted.
Let us know if you’ve used the blockers and what your results have been.
The Insectarium, viewed from the entrance above
This was my first visit to the Insectarium. It is a short walk from the Botanical Gardens, and is one of Montreal’s most popular tourist attractions. Your ticket to the gardens includes the entry fee for the bugs!
Apparently the exhibit of free flying Monarch butterflies is a must-see, but I missed the opening by a couple of days, so I had to content myself with the permanent collections.
The largest Coleoptera? Whatever - it's huge!
The tropical insects never fail to amaze me. Here is what may be the largest coleoptera in the world (but of course, entomologists are still debating this). It is about the size of a house sparrow, but much scarier looking.
The Cobra butterfly
This cobra butterfly is so named because the markings at the tips of its wings look like cobra heads. Nothing like that in New England, that’s for sure.
Beautiful, aren't they?
I loved the impossibly bright colors of many of the tropical butterflies. Imagine living in a place where these amazing creatures are fluttering around.
The Atta ant exhibit is open to the room.
Before leaving, I stopped for a while at an intriguing display of “atta” – or Leafcutter – ants. There are enclosed food and shelter areas at each end, but the middle consists of bare branches wide open to the room. The curators have laid down scent trails, and the ants simply follow them, scurrying back and forth, carrying leaves they have cut. For me, this was the highlight of the visit.
One of the ants, carrying a leaf.
For more information on the Insectarium, click here.
I was back in Montreal recently, and had some time to visit the city’s famous botanical garden. Sitting in the shadow of the hulking Olympic Stadium, this is a big complex – 185 acres of greenhouses and themed outdoor gardens. With the outdoor gardens covered with snow, my explorations were confined to several greenhouses.
The Olympic Stadium, seen from the Botanical Garden
My tour began with the “Tropical Food Plants” exhibit
The tropical food plants greenhouse. Steamy!
and continued into the stunning orchid greenhouse. Being an orchid junkie, I spent the longest time here.
My favorite exhibit
The fern exhibit was next, and it is lovely. The greenhouse is bisected by a waterfall that you can walk under.
The waterfall
Finally, I arrived at the renowned bonsai exhibit. This was my second favorite greenhouse. I loved the way the trees were displayed in so many different ways. It was all designed to show them to their best advantage, and it worked.
The bonsai exhibit
You can easily spend hours in the greenhouses, but there are many strategically placed benches so you can rest your tired feet and take it all in. In the summer, there is a lot more to see outdoors, including the Chinese and First Nations gardens.
For more information on this great horticultural attraction, click here.
Next: the bugs next door
x-ray showing mycotic arthritis
In this final installment of my miniseries, I will explore fungal, or “mycotic” arthritis. This is a rare condition that affects bone and joint tissue. It arises from several conditions, all caused by fungi.
Below are a few of the fungi-induced ailments that we can catch from coming into contact with contaminated soil:
All of the above-mentioned fungal infections can cause fungal arthritis. Doctors test for arthritis using procedures such as x- rays and synovial (joint) fluid biopsies.
I have to say that after researching this series, I might just tuck a face mask into my gardening bag for windy days…..
In this installment of my miniseries on more obscure garden illnesses, please feast your eyes on the gypsy moth caterpillar (Lymantria dispar). I’m pretty sure that most of us have seen these creatures, and the damage they can do to trees and shrubs. But did you know that they can also give you an unpleasant rash? (I have always wondered why birds don’t eat them. The larvae could be toxic.)
The first significant cases of gypsy moth-related dermatitis in the United States were seen in the northeast in the early 1980s. These outbreaks occurred during severe infestations, and were probably as a result of people coming into contact with the early larval stage – or first instar – of the moth. That’s when they are tiny and hang out in webs that can be blown around in the wind.
first instar gypsy moth larvae
Researchers think the fine hairs, or setae, of the larvae contain toxins, which, when they come in contact with human skin, make us itchy. The rash resembles a mild case of poison ivy, and can be treated with cold compresses and calamine lotion.
Next: fungal arthritis
Early last summer, I was helping a designer in her client’s garden. I was wearing gloves, but I still developed a weird rash on my finger. Then it occurred to me that the previous year, I had gotten a rash on the same finger while working in the same garden, but that rash had gone away, and this one was still there, months later.
I finally got to the dermatologist, who did a culture and determined that it was a simple case of eczema. But the experience got me thinking about the stuff you can catch while you’re gardening. I am not going to get into plants like poison ivy here. This series of posts focuses on other, more obscure nasties.
A sporotrichosis infection
One of the most common infections is Sporotrichosis, caused by the fungus Sporothrix schenckii. It is more commonly known as”rose thorn disease,” because you can catch it when you handle thorny plants. But you can also get it from sphagnum moss (always wear gloves when you work with sphagnum!) and hay. The fungus enters the skin through small cuts or punctures. You can also get a lung infection if you inhale it.
Sprotrichosis usually first appears as a small bump on the skin, but it can develop into open sores that won’t heal. Obviously, it’s a good idea to get yourself to a dermatologist for this and all such rashes.
Treating this fungus is fairly straightforward, once the doctor has done a culture. You can prevent infections altogether by wearing long sleeves and thick gloves while handling thorny plants, and by wearing gloves whenever you are using sphagnum moss.
Next post: when caterpillars attack!
Herbdoc again, with more tips on gardens for kids:
If you’re looking for some unusual seeds or plants that will spark your children’s curiosity and enthusiasm, here’s a short list of some that I’ve had great success with:
Eggplant: Pumpkin-on-a-Stick (Solanum aethiopicum)- I’m told this is used as a culinary vegetable in Asia, but we grow it as an ornamental. When the fruit turns orange, remove all the leaves and you’ll have many little “pumpkins-on-a-stick!”
Twinkle Hybrid – harvest 2” eggplants; plant grows about 24” and is spineless.
Tomatoes: Cherry: Riesentraube – In German the name means “Giant Bunch of Grapes”; it’s very appropriate.
Black Pearl – Tastes like a tomato right off the vine, but if chilled, has a Concord grape flavor.
Peacevine – Tresses of small red tomatoes; high Vitamin C content
Pumpkin – Most standard pumpkins will take up too much room so try Baby Bear (5-6” across and 3-4 “ tall) or Jack Be Little (3”x2”)
Squash (winter) – Try Galeux D’ Eysines – salmon colored flesh with wonderful warts!
Lettuce: Green – Two Star; leaf; slow to bolt
Red – Red Sails; leaf; slow to bolt; crisp not bitter
Hungarian Broom Corn (Sorghum bicolor var. technicum) – fills with red seeds at maturity. Children can make brooms with a few stalks, used them in dried flower arrangements, or leave as forage for the birds.
Sunflowers – Most children love sunflowers, but they are too large for a small bed. Try Sunflower Elf (14-16”)
Beans – These have large seeds that sprout quickly. A teepee of stakes will allow you to grow the pole type (Scarlet Runner) or try the bush variety, Beananza, which produces for a long time as long as it is regularly picked.
Radishes – Fast growers; almost any seed will do, but I like Cherry Belle and Cherry Bomb II hybrids for their color and taste.
Herbs - Children love to pinch and smell the fragrance of lemon balm, parsley, basil, anise-hyssop, chives and mint. (Grow the mint in a pot so it doesn’t overwhelm the plot!) They are also fascinated by texture, so try the soft, fuzzy leaves of lamb’s ears.
Flowers – Try the old-fashioned or unusual types like Mimulus (Monkey Flower), Cottage Red Marigold, Balsam, Cosmos Cosmic Orange or single dahlias.
Here’s HerbDoc with some great tips on gardening with your kids:
When I was growing up, my parents owned a cottage not far from the ocean. I was so envious of the neighborhood children across the street as each of them had his/her own vegetable garden to tend.
Their mother kept a gorgeous yard with a very large vegetable garden but had listened to their requests to have their own small patches. She took them out to the yard to look for suitable spaces for their plots and discussed what their seeds/plants would need to grow. Two small areas, perhaps no bigger than 8 X 10 feet, were chosen, and since they were in an expanse of lawn, their dad was enlisted to get them ready.
Mom then went about gathering catalogs and finding out what the children wanted to grow. She explained that every seed does not grow into a plant. Seeds were ordered and were planted in various containers on the windowsills.
When late spring arrived the seedlings were hardened off and planted in the beds. Additional trips were made to local nurseries for supplemental flower and vegetable packs.
All summer these children tended their little gardens. They learned about the growth of plants and how weather and insects impacted their harvests. In late summer they made a scarecrow to sit between their plots.
Many years later when I was an adult, the mother told me that her children were delighted to eat the fresh vegetables they grew, and that she felt that they had learned valuable lessons about the environment and responsibility while being physically active outdoors. When I had my own children, I took her advice to heart and found that indulging my little ones’ natural curiosity and boundless energy encouraged budding green thumbs that still enjoy gardening today.
For some great resources for a first garden, read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle with your children and visit My First Garden on the web: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/firstgarden.
Do you think they're listening?
I know I’ve written to my houseplants before, but I believe that communication is the key to a long and successful relationship. So, I am writing to them again, because I feel like it.
Good morning everyone. Those extra minutes of daylight seem to be working their magic, don’t they?
Orchids, you are torturing me with those spikes. Yes, yes, I know it’ll be worth it when you finally flower, but darlings, I grow impatient! Almost every one of you is about to burst forth, and I simply cannot wait. As usual, however, there are a couple of exceptions. Oncidium, is that new growth going to result in a flower spike, or are you teasing me? If that’s the case, please remember that the last plant to tease me wound up in the compost pile with the other slackers. And you mini phals: not even a nubbin of a spike on either one of you. Take a look at the “spikeage” going on all around you and take the hint, will ya? Zygopetalum, I’ve given you the extra water you’ve been asking for, and now I see you’re putting out some new growth. Are you teasing me like your pal Oncidium, or if there a flower spike in your future?
Dear cyclamen, always in bloom. You are a true joy, and you never cause a minute of trouble. Likewise, my precious oxalis. Don’t you ever get tired?
And I would be remiss if I did not give a most honorable mention to my lemon tree. In my last letter, I lamented your stagnation and general lack of enthusiasm. I was actually thinking of giving you away to HerbDoc, who said she would try to “persuade” you to grow. Well, imagine my surprise when I peered down at you recently, and there they were: little buds at each node. It looks like you’re going to flower – and rather soon! Good going, and you are most welcome for the chelated iron.
Yours Truly,
Your Caregiver
My lemon tree. Check out those buds!
Here’s HerbDoc with some thoughts on where our food comes from:
I read an interesting quote the other day which made me reflect on what we buy and from whom. The quote said: “Living sustainably isn’t only about what you use, but what you fail to use.”
How many times have you purchased fresh produce at the supermarket only to have it spoil before it can be used? Most produce in the US is picked 4 to 7 days in advance and travels some 1500 miles before it ends up on the market shelves. Distances are of course increased when we buy imports from South America, Mexico, Asia and the like. Did you know that 90% of all produce is the US is shipped by truck and that this contributes to about 1% of all the emissions generated by trucking?
In addition to the poor quality of food and pollution of the air by freight trucking, large agri-businesses use enormous amounts of fertilizers and pesticides to get crops to market. These contribute to the destruction of our soils and water and generate health scares every year such as e-Coli and GMO contamination.
We can all help by buying locally grown food whenever possible. Farmers’ markets have sprouted up all over Rhode Island, and some are now open year round. The nearest farmers’ market to my home is less than a 10 minute drive, and on any given Saturday from 10 AM to 2 PM offers fresh vegetables, beef, shellfish, pastries and breads, cornmeal, honey, jam and whatever else is in season. The aroma of johnnycakes hot off the griddle and that fresh bread is irresistible!
photo: Farm Fresh RI
When we purchase produce at a large supermarket only 18 cents of every dollar goes to the grower while the other 82 cents goes to various middlemen. Let’s cut out those middlemen, buy our food directly from a local grower, and keep the business and dollars in our own communities!
a green roof in New York City
I love the idea of a building that not only does not harm the environment, but actually contributes to it in a positive way. Green roofs help do that. Proponents of green roofs insist that when integrated with other environmentally sustainable building practices, green roofs can reduce heating and air conditioning costs, filter and clean the water and the air, make use of local and recycled materials, extend the lives of roofs, provide habitat for wildlife and green spaces for humans, and just look really pretty.
Isn't this beautiful?
The average roof is a stark, forbidding place. Green roofs, on the other hand, are vegetated roof covers that provide additional living spaces and a way to connect with nature.
Just in case you thought this was something new, it’s not. Green roofs go back many hundreds of years. (Ever heard of the hanging gardens of Babylon?)
The development of today’s green roofs began in the 1970s in Germany, where they are now commonplace. Finally, about 20 years later, people started building them here.
There are two types of green roofs: extensive and intensive. Extensive roofs are more lightweight, with fewer types of plants – mostly alpine. They are not usually accessible to people. Intensive roofs are higher maintenance, and can be planted with a wider variety of trees and shrubs. These roofs are also designed for human recreation.
I would love to see green roofs catch on in a big way here in Rhode Island. We have a perpetual problem with storm water runoff, and we could use all the help we can get.
Interested in greening your own roof? Go here for information and ideas.
Goats on your roof. How cool is that?
Garden geek Auntie Beak, wearing her other hat (literally) as Tomato Captain of the North Stonington Garden Club.
Dirtynailz’s garden catalog post, below, which mentions the Totally Tomatoes catalog, prompts me to mention my own very happy experiences with Totally Tomatoes.
I love heirloom tomatoes. No, really, I LOVE them. And Totally Tomatoes has a great selection. Now, besides being the DiggingRI resident garden geek, I am also a member of my local garden club, just over the border in North Stonington, Connecticut. We hold just one fundraiser a year, which is a massive Plant Sale, and as part of that sale, I run a Tomato Poll. The poll has lots of heirloom varieties from Totally Tomatoes, and allows anyone to vote for their favorite heirloom tomatoes, which we then raise for our sale.
I realize you all will probably have lots of choices for plant sales to visit this spring, including the East Farm Festival, which is always on the same day as my plant sale. But if you love heirloom tomatoes like I do, you’ll surely want to make some time to visit the North Stonington Garden Club’s sale too. No reason, really, why you couldn’t hit both!
Especially if you voted for Cherokee Purple and Lemon Drop.
Have you ever seen a “frost flower?” I think I might have seen them in the woods when I lived in Quebec, but I haven’t seen any since I moved to RI.
a frost flower
Frost flowers need specific conditions in order to form: wet soil, followed by clear night skies and a drop in temperature to 28F or lower. They form in the fall on the stems of plants when water supercools inside the plant stems. Capillary action draws moisture up through the stems and that moisture freezes, splitting the stems and freezing on contact with the cold air. As more water is forced out of the stem and freezes, the accumulated ice forms ribbons that twist into “petals” and flower-like shapes.
Some plants are known for producing frost flowers. Ironweed (vernonia altissima) and dittany (cunila mariani) are two of them. You won’t see this phenomenon once winter sets in, because frozen water won’t travel up the plant stems. (I thought these were so unique that I’d share them with you anyway.)
Not surprisingly, frost flowers are so delicate that they usually shatter when touched. However, as morning temperatures begin to rise, they are more likely to melt and disappear before we ever get to see, let alone touch them.
It’s my turn to weigh in on my favorite catalogs. Like HerbDoc, I am always pleased to see them waiting in my mailbox. I set them aside and savor them later, often before going to sleep. (I find reading about plants and thinking about the garden very relaxing.) Then when I decide it’s time to get myself in gear, I haul them out of their special storage box and start making lists – and plans. I enjoy growing plants from seed (so miraculous!) and I love my Lee Valley seed starting system. It has capillary mats, so the seedlings are supplied with a constant level of moisture.
Anyway, back to the catalogs.
I always enjoy the beautiful catalogs from White Flower Farm. The photographs are top quality, and I learn a lot from reading the descriptions of the plants. I also really appreciate the fact that they write out the botanical names phonetically, so you know how to pronounce them. By the way, I don’t like catalogs that do not print the botanical names.
Another favorite is High Country Gardens. I like their low maintenance and drought-resistant offerings. Most of the cultivars are also hummingbird magnets – important to me.
Like so many others, I, too love the Bluestone Perennials catalog. I have ordered plants from them and they have always arrived in perfect condition.
For bulbs, both spring and fall planting, McClure and Zimmerman has a great selection.
I have a thing for clematis, and there’s a great nursery in Ipswich MA called (appropriately) “Completely Clematis.” Their catalog is online only, and the selection is mind-boggling. I have ordered from them several times and the quality is excellent.
For vegetables, I like “The Cook’s Garden” but for tomatoes in particular, I love “Totally Tomatoes.” The name of the catalog says it all (although they also sell pepper, eggplant and cucumber seeds).
HerbDoc shares some of her favorite garden catalogs. Please feel free to share yours!
This is a wonderful time of year for gardeners. Last year’s gardens have been put to bed, and the seed, nursery and tool catalogs have been stuffing my mailbox since just after Thanksgiving. Is it just me, or were they extra early this year? Now with snow on the ground and the holiday decorations put away, it’s time to sit down with last year’s notes, my box of saved seeds and the bounty of catalogs to plan the new season.
Since I’m heavily into herbs, heirlooms and sustainable plantings and practices, some of my favorite publications are:
1) Richters (Goodwood, Ontario LOC 1A0 Canada). This 75 page catalog is a bonanza of almost every known herb, has great zone and historical information and wonderful products and books. Plants or seeds are available.
2) Johnny’s Seeds (955 Benton Ave., Winslow, Maine 04901-2601). Johnny’s is an employee-owned company that offers vegetable, herb, flower, fruit and cover crop seeds along with superb products and tools. Valuable growing information is provided for each entry.
3) Seeds of Change (c/o Marketing Concepts, PO Box 152, Spicer, MN 56288). This company supplies only heirloom, open-pollinated and traditionally bred modern hybrids (no GMOs!); all are organic. Owners believe that “Seed is the first link in a safe food chain.”
4) Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (2278 Baker Creek Rd., Mansfield, MO 65704). This is an absolutely spectacular catalog filled with gorgeous photos, great descriptions and customer reviews for each listing.
5) Gardens Alive! (5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg, IN 47025). All products offered are environmentally safe and all natural. You’ll find products for your home, lawn, garden and pets, all of which have a 100% money back guarantee. If you order by March 3rd, you’ll get $25 off your (no minimum) order!
Two others that I couldn’t do without are Heirloom Roses (24062 NE Riverside Dr., St. Paul, OR 97137) which offers virus-free, winter hardy, own root roses from a very knowledgeable staff and Lee Valley Tools (PO Box 1780, Ogdensburg, NY 13669-6780), another Canadian company, that sells innovative, high quality tools for woodworking, gardening, and cooking as well as hardware.
All of these companies have on-line sites and some, like Johnny’s and Seeds of Change offer free email newsletters and updates. I subscribe to these, but I just have to have to feel and smell the catalog paper (with a huge bunch of stickies nearby!) to mark my favorites!
Before the holidays, the Rhode Island Master Gardeners were treated to a talk by award-winning garden writer, lecturer and plantsman extrordinaire, Graham Rice.
Graham Rice
Graham divides his time between Pennsylvania and England. He is the author of numerous gardening books, and the Editor-in-Chief of the British and American Encyclopedia of Perennials. So it’s probably a gross understatement to say that this is a man who really knows his plants, and even better, knows which growers are growing what and which introductions we are likely to see this coming summer.
I have always thought that our preferences for certain plants are very subjective – matters of personal taste. For instance, I usually go for the old- fashioned cultivars and single flowered varieties over the fluffy and flashier new doubles.
I am not overly fond of some of the new echinaceas, but of course, many people would disagree. However, I did fall head over heels for some of the new rudbeckias when they were introduced a few years ago, particularly “Prairie Sun.”
Dicentra "Burning Hearts"
Many of the new perennials are the results of someone spotting a sport growing alongside its wild or nursery buddies, and propagating it. Graham explained that growers usually wait a few years to see if the new cultivars will breed true. Many times they do not.
There are some mighty interesting things being done with foliage and flowers. We were treated to some great “garden porn” – beautiful photos of new heucheras, hostas, dicentras etc.
Dianthus "Wicked Witch"
For more information, check out Graham’s blog, “The Transatlantic Plantsman.”